Author Topic: Oil Pump/Auto Lube  (Read 616 times)

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Offline beemeerr11

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Oil Pump/Auto Lube
« on: January 06, 2019, 12:27:49 AM »
My daughters bike is a 1990 DT200, she bought it seized, I picked up a spares bike (seized) for $50:00, No instruments etc. Bike is up and running now after 2 years, but figured the oil pump must be shagged as there was plenty of oil in the frame when pulled apart with a stuffed piston.
On the spare bike, there was no oil in the frame, If I bench test the pumps, using a syringe with plastic hose and bleeding the line, using a drill on the drive, I get nothing out of one pump, the second I get spurts of oil, not a consistent stream, the top of the pump bobs up and down, the down motion being the spurt.
Is this correct or should it be a constant flow, as it would be more convenient if the bike ran with Auto Lube??? Not sure what speed my drill runs at but the spurs are not a great amount?

Thanks in advance
Lou

Offline fatterhatter

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Re: Oil Pump/Auto Lube
« Reply #1 on: January 06, 2019, 01:35:15 AM »

Repair kits are available

http://hvccycle.net/yamaha-oil-injection-pump-re-seal-kit-hvc200103/

dont know if i would trust it without new seals, my bikes with a pump get removed and run premix. I carry a small container with just enough oil for the next refill.

my 1992 aprilia af1 sport pro 125 doesnt have a repair kit for the pump, so premix it is !




Offline killindini1

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Re: Oil Pump/Auto Lube
« Reply #2 on: January 06, 2019, 06:59:57 AM »
Hi Lou,

Yes the autolube pump squirts oil in pulses. The manual explains how to set up minimum stroke using shims.
I have re built my pump with new seals, they are available.

Cheers,
Steve
Beer is more than just a breakfast drink

Offline dont

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Re: Oil Pump/Auto Lube
« Reply #3 on: January 06, 2019, 08:39:55 AM »
If all is is ready to go uou can do a test ride of say 100 km using premix but with the pump also operating an measure how much oil is used. On the oil pump alone it is nearly impossible to see exhaust smoke.
What goes up must come down, unless you broke a 'rod 😞

Offline Glenngt750

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Re: Oil Pump/Auto Lube
« Reply #4 on: January 06, 2019, 07:50:43 PM »
Not sure if you have access to a Service Manual, but here are the relevant pages. Autolube is my friend!
From:Edmonton, AB. Canada. Bike(s): 1990 Yamaha DT200R, 2006 Honda GL1800A, 1977 Suzuki GT750, 1985 Honda VF750FF, 1987 Honda VFR700F2.

Offline beemeerr11

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Re: Oil Pump/Auto Lube
« Reply #5 on: January 06, 2019, 08:20:33 PM »
Thanks to all for the reply, GlennGT750 a special thanks, I'll need to go through what you have generously provided to dissifen it, I installed (what I believe to be a good oil pump) today, did the bleed, but then realised that at full throttle the oil pump was only opening say 3/4, I adjusted the cable where it splits into two to get the rotation on the oil pump to the stop point (limit), but now that makes it that the throttle comes on when your 1/4 way already turned to accelerate??? I've adjusted from the top of the cable also and it made no difference.
I'll need to possibly pull the old one apart to know what in the manual it means by "shims".
I'll assume that if it isn't at  the stopper point, (fully open) it will lack oil at high revs, or is that how they are?

Thanks in advance

Lou
   

Offline Glenngt750

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Re: Oil Pump/Auto Lube
« Reply #6 on: January 11, 2019, 09:22:52 PM »
You must follow the directions from the info I provided. By raising the rear wheel off of the ground, or putting it in a higher gear, then getting the back wheel to turn, you need to make the pump go until it reaches max. travel, just watch it and measure the gap 4 or 5 times. When you are sure what your gap is, then you MIGHT need to adjust it.
   The only reason to open the pump up to full stroke is for air bleeding.
   The pump supplies the proper amount of oil to the engine at different RPM'S by running more or less often. As an example, at 1000 rpm it will provide the engine with 100 strokes of oil. But at 7000 rpm, it'll provide 700 strokes of the pump per minute. Also, the amount of fuel you are giving to the engine is mirrored by the other pump cable.
   So, after bleeding, adjust the pump to .008 to .0010 inches. Or 0.020 to 0.025 mm. Make sure you are using the correct scale, either inches or millimeters. (Though you probably know that- more a mistake I'm liable to make.)
   It sounds like you are not 100% sure? Make sure you get this right.
From:Edmonton, AB. Canada. Bike(s): 1990 Yamaha DT200R, 2006 Honda GL1800A, 1977 Suzuki GT750, 1985 Honda VF750FF, 1987 Honda VFR700F2.

Offline dont

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Re: Oil Pump/Auto Lube
« Reply #7 on: January 12, 2019, 07:49:56 AM »
The actuating cable splitter (throttle/oil) is magic, there is a little lever type thing inside, you dont need to adjust it for oil (i found this very hard to accept, but eventually did). The shimming will probably be right but check it. I wouldn't alter shimming if you think it is pumping too much oil, only if you think not enough. In normal operation it doesn't punp full stroke.
What goes up must come down, unless you broke a 'rod 😞

Offline beemeerr11

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Re: Oil Pump/Auto Lube
« Reply #8 on: January 13, 2019, 08:56:41 AM »
Hey Don and GlennGT750 ,
I measured the clearance, and there is more than the minimum 0.025, I've set the cable joiner to equal, so therefore the oil pump turns to 3/4 and not all the way to the stopper, I pulled off the line that runs to the Reed where it injects and it was pulsing out oil, I still have quite a bit of 30:1 premix left in the tank and will ride with it, I've filled up the oil to max so I'll get some sort of indication of it's use, the pump itself when it bobs up and down doesn't do it vertically it sort of has a swirl action, if that makes sense?
Cheers

Lou

Offline dont

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Re: Oil Pump/Auto Lube
« Reply #9 on: January 13, 2019, 11:04:15 AM »
Sounding like what I did when I fitted s 2nd hand pump, I was pretty nervous but it all went good.
The bikes original pump had done nearly 80,000 km by the way 😁.
What goes up must come down, unless you broke a 'rod 😞