Author Topic: WR200 UK (Easy?) build project  (Read 2777 times)

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Offline fred99999au

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Re: WR200 UK (Easy?) build project
« Reply #30 on: April 16, 2019, 08:24:22 PM »
agreed. Unless the buckle is really bad, Ie run rims worse than that. Go at it with a rotary wire brush.

Offline Spannerz

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Re: WR200 UK (Easy?) build project
« Reply #31 on: April 17, 2019, 09:52:12 AM »

Anyone got any tips on getting corroded spokes undone?  Or has anyone got spare wheels/rims??

Front wheel is not corroded to the same extent, but if I have to replace one rim then maybe I'll do both, else it will look like the poor relation.
Picture of the Rear Rim...

I have started my front rim, which looks exactly the same as your rear rim.   I took it to a specialist to get re-trued, he took one look at it and told me it was f**ed.   My nipples look exactly like yours and he puts on heat, portable blowtorch, trys to crack them with a spoke wrench, from the spoke side.  New spokes were about $2 each x 36 + labour, + new rim, suddenly I have a $300 front wheel which might as well get a new tube and tyre.   

The thing that wrecked my front rim, I do believe was loose spokes, so you'll be wise to get that sorted unfortuneately.

YFS200 Blaster
WR200 Yamaha
XL200RD Honda
WR300 Husqvarna

Offline Cooky375

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Re: WR200 UK (Easy?) build project
« Reply #32 on: April 17, 2019, 02:57:49 PM »


http://www.yamahait.com.au/forum/index.php/topic,24320.80.html

http://www.yamahait.com.au/forum/index.php/topic,24263.0.html

For me I work off a budget and try to get the most out of what I can use before buying new. I rather buy fuel and ride time than new parts.

My 200 has coped some abuse over really rocky terrain and my rims are holding up. However I know they wont last for ever and will keep an eye on them.

My 175 cracked from the abuse in rocky terrain but I kept on using it. The crack grew another inch from the photo in the link above before I replaced it.

If I was hitting triples or racing Finke, no doubt I would replace immediately but for trail hacks(I'm not saying you are one, I am), you will be surprised how far mechanical items can be pushed. You just have to be realistic with the finances and your risk assessments when riding with old bikes.




Offline wishiwas16again

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Re: WR200 UK (Easy?) build project
« Reply #33 on: April 23, 2019, 05:52:06 AM »
Thanks for the ideas so far.  I'll add cable ties to the list of possible solutions  ;D

Offline wishiwas16again

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Re: WR200 UK (Easy?) build project
« Reply #34 on: April 23, 2019, 06:13:54 AM »
Progress while I ponder the wheel issues - rear shock install using alternate top bush solution.
I had a TTR250 a few years back and used this alternative to the rose bearing. 
The rose bearings don't seem very well suited to the task and wear out quickly, and this worked really well for the TTR so I got to some research.
The top bearing, 'top hats' and seals are the same for WR and TTR so it seemed it might work.
As I discovered for myself, the difference between the two shock ends is that the TTR uses a wire clip on both sides to locate and retain the bearing, whereas the WR has a shoulder machined on one side and a clip on the other.
The shoulder is probably only 0.5mm, but it means the holes on the left/right are not equal.
Surprisingly, Yamaha use the same size seal for both sides.  Not typical of the Japanese in my experience.
But if the difference is so small that Yamaha are ignoring it, then I thought I'd ignore it too.

Result is that I bought the kit and gave it a go.
It's a PITA to get the shock into the forked opening, but that was also true when I did it on the TTR.
The airbox is another nuisance factor. The late 80s YZ frame, that looks so like the WR one, has a removable left hand sub-frame support. 
On the WR it's fixed and makes getting the airbox in/out like solving a rubiks cube. >:(
This matters for the shock install as you need all the room you can get.
In the end I had to install it with no airbox, then remove it, install airbox and reinstall the shock (now easier as it had already been squashed for a while).

Overall I'd say it's harder to install than standard, but it's cheaper, maintenance free, and will last longer.

The kit is available here http://www.ttr250.com/Shock_bearing_fitting_guide.html
And here's the pics...

Offline wishiwas16again

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Re: WR200 UK (Easy?) build project
« Reply #35 on: April 27, 2019, 08:43:08 AM »
Bolted a few more bits back to the frame...

Offline Cooky375

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Re: WR200 UK (Easy?) build project
« Reply #36 on: April 27, 2019, 01:25:40 PM »
Mate! Looking good!

Offline wishiwas16again

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Re: WR200 UK (Easy?) build project
« Reply #37 on: April 29, 2019, 05:23:35 AM »
Thanks for the replies and suggestions on the wheel  :)
This is how it worked out...
Mixed acetone & ATF, and put a few drops into each spoke with a syringe.  I did about a 1/4 of the wheel each day, rotate/repeat over a week or so.
Tried to undo a few spokes with an impact power driver and heat - a couple moved, but generally no go.
I tried drilling the nipples but it wasn't that effective.  Instead I used an angle grinder to take the heads of the nipples and punched each spoke through without too much force - just like taking out a rivet.
Once I had the hub free I was able to support it on another bench next to my vice, clamp the spoke, apply heat just where needed, and undo the remains of the nipples.
Getting the spokes and hub free of the rim not only gets rid of the tension that's working against you, but also means you can heat the nipple really quickly and easily without the aluminium rim sucking all the heat away.
It's a chore, but it worked and I salvaged all the spokes.
I've ordered new nipples and got a NOS Rim.  Now I need to clean everything and rebuild the wheel.

Offline Cooky375

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Re: WR200 UK (Easy?) build project
« Reply #38 on: April 29, 2019, 10:24:26 AM »
Nice work, it?s going be nice with that new rim.

Offline wishiwas16again

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Re: WR200 UK (Easy?) build project
« Reply #39 on: May 06, 2019, 05:34:49 AM »
While waiting for parts to rebuild the wheel I reassembled the swingarm today that was powder coated a while back.