How To: Crank Case Seals

[smithy]

ok i cant delay it any longer
ive got to get of my bottom and do the seals
im doing both sides   so here is my question are there any little surprises i need to look out for
are there any speacial tools needed
and approx time it should take
as u can tell this will be my first attempt at this job im not a mechanical idiot but i do like to be prepared before starting any job
should the crank case seals pop out or do i have to wrestle them to the death
any advise will be taken on board
                                         cheers smithy

[Evan]

you will need a flywheel puller. a rattle gun (impact wrench) would be very helpful!

Flywheel Side

1. Take Cover Off
2. Remove flywheel nut (Rattle gun works best here)
3. try to remove the washer behind the nut (an air cannon works good)
4. insert your flywheel puller (left hand threads)
5. remove flywheel (watch out for the key on the shaft, if you cant find it check the magnets in the flywheel)
6. take note of stators position (make marks if you need to!!)
7. Remove stator
8. remove the seal (or whats left of it) i used a small screw, screwed it in the old seal and took pliers and pulled the screw & seal out.
9. install new seal (a socket or piece of pipe that fits the seal works well)
10. Install stator (make sure its in the same spot as before or your timing will be off!)
11. put the key in the shaft and put the flywheel on.
12. Insert washer and nut and tighten the nut (tighten it good! mine wasnt tight enough and the flywheel came off a little and snapped the key!)

as for the clutch side, i cant remember how to do it i will look it up in the manual and post it tomorrow

total time is about 15-20 min for the flywheel side but thats for someone who hasnt done it before. who cares about time?


"IF YOU DON'T HAVE TIME TO DO IT RIGHT WHEN WILL YOU HAVE TIME TO DO IT AGAIN?" - Mike Holmes

[smithy]

cheers thanks for that

[rodeobob]

The other side you may need to strip the clutch basket off.
If you are lucky you might be able to get the gear off the end of the crank with the clutch basket in place.

Undo the nut on the end of the crank. I would not use a rattle gun. Use an off cut strip of aluminium to jamb the gear and undo it with a breaker bar. Reverse that to do it up but with a torque wench.



Cheers, Bob.

[Denzlepob]

Bob, do these seals have any special heat resisting properties or are they just regular oil seals?

[Griffo]

The factory Yamaha seals seem to have big chunks of rubber hanging off them on the crankcase side....
Case stuffers maybe? Look like they are designed to take up as much room as possible!
I can't comment on the mechanical properties of the materials in question...  

But I have used ordinary seals in place of the genuine article... Just remember, spring side of seal faces out!
Don't forget to use grease on the seal lips when installing... Seals need lube too!

[rodeobob]

Not sure.

I would tend to buy a set of seals that are dubbed 'crank seals' rather than a generic seal from the seal shop.



Cheers, Bob.

[Evan]

the oil seal on my IT200 on the flywheel side seems normal. the oil seal on the clutch side from what i remember is a double seal (springs on both sides) and a bugger to get in, this seal is much harder than the flywheel side.

[Evan]

Clutch Side

1. Drain Transmission Oil
2. Remove Clutch Cover
3. Remove Clutch Spring Bolts
4. Remove Clutch Springs (measure for wear)
5. Remove Clutch Plates (measure for wear)
6. Straighten Lock Washer Tab
7. Remove Locknut (you need to hold the clutch when you do this there is a yamaha tool that will do this but i used a pair of vise-grip clamps to hold it)
8. Remove Lock Washer
9. Remove Clutch Boss (the inner part)
9.5 BEER BREAK!!!!!!!!!
10. Remove Thrust washer & Clutch housing (the outer bigger part)
11. Remove Spacer & Another Thrust Washer
12. Remove The Primary Drive Gear Nut - The nut on the CRANKSHAFT (if your top end is on insert some SOFT rope in the sparkplug hole so the piston cant go to TDC and therefore cant complete a stroke so the engine wont move. if your top end is off, put somthing through the piston rod so it cant complete a stroke OR hold the flywheel. then take the nut off, i used a rattle gun here)
13. Remove washer
14. Remove Primary Drive Gear
15. Remove Straight Key
16. Remove Seal Holder
17. Remove Old Oil Seal
18. Install New Oil Seal (watch out she can be a pain to get in  )
19. Reverse These Steps to put it back together!!!

[smithy]

Evan you are a champ

[Evan]

If This Forum Wasnt Here I Wouldnt Know Half The Stuff I Do Now, THANKS GUYS!!!

[Jock]

If This Forum Wasnt Here I Wouldnt Know Half The Stuff I Do Now, THANKS GUYS!!!

WORD.

[bobc]

If you are working on a DT then you will also have to allow extra time to remove the exhaust, radiator hoses and autolube out of the way .

[KyleCalvin]

Nice info here.  I esp. like the ider of puttn something through the piston rod to keep the engine from stroking-   
Thats the hands on info one can get here but not from the shop book.